"Packing for Perth," Plains Folk
#694 (Copyright Hoy & Isern)
I've been to Perth,
and I'm going back. A lot of other people are going there, too.
Perth, population a million or so, is the capital city of the state of Western
Australia, another region that attracted me as likely for
comparison with the plains of North America. Western Australia is subhumid
on the coast, where Perth
is; semiarid through its wheat belt, extending some 200 miles inland; and from
there on east, deadly dry.
Perth is accessible, like a prairie city;
it's like driving into Albuquerque.
And Perth is cosmopolitan, as diverse as, say, Winnipeg. Its downtown is
vital and bustling. You can buy aboriginal art or Paris fashions. Its skyline is clean and
impressive on the level horizon.
People are pouring into Perth
from all points of the compass. There are plenty of eastern Australians; lots
of Hong Kong Chinese; and among professional groups, inordinate numbers of
white South Africans. I am told that "P.F.P" in South Africa means "Packing for Perth."
The black cockatoos were screaming and diving as I walked on campus at Perth's Curtin University
of Technology to give a seminar for the social science faculty. We got to
talking about life on the plains of the various continents and found that we
had different words for some of the same things. We talk about the virtues of
"value-added industry" in agricultural products; they talk about
"upstream processing" and "downstream processing." We talk
about people going back to the land. They talk about "commodification
of the rural ideal."
Most of all, these people who studied the plains of Western Australia were interested in the
globalization of agriculture. They were practically cosmopolitan in a way no
similar group in any American plains state would be. As they say in real
estate, location is everything.
They told me, as I drove inland, to be on the lookout for Whitington ditches. That sounds like some sort of prank
played on tourists, doesn't it? Watch out for jackalopes,
too.
No, the Whitington ditch is an interesting bit of
plains lore. People on the North American plains are familiar with the problems
of soil salinity. On the southern plains it often happens because of irrigation
with water that is a little salty. On the northern plains it comes through
capillary action, brine coming to the surface, especially on summer fallow
ground.
That's similar to what has happened in Western Australia. There, the native
eucalypt trees, which thrive in that hard country, acted as wicks drawing off
deep moisture and preventing it rising and carrying salts to the surface.
Until, that is, the trees were cleared to make wheat fields and sheep paddocks.
Now great tracts, thousands of acres each, are being rendered barren by the
rising salt. Research on dealing with this takes a pretty long view--analyze
the hydrology of the watershed, strategically replant key
areas to trees, reclaim salt lands with salt-resistant shrubs, and so on.
In the meantime, this chap named Whitington
brought in some dozers and started cutting ditches, deep furrows along the
contour of the field, designed to intercept and drain off the saline waters.
These seem to work, at least locally.
The farthest inland we got was the town of Southern Cross, on the east edge of the wheat
belt. Above the bar in the Southern Cross pub is an autographed photo of Slim
Dusty, Australia's
foremost country singer, sitting on his guitar case in front of the pub. Local
barflies say this was the very pub that inspired Dusty's
best-loved song, "The Pub with No Beer." I have to believe them, or
else they might not believe my stories, either.
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