www.bonsaisite.com History Bonsai first appeared in China over a thousand years ago on a very basic scale, known as pun-sai, where it was the practice of growing single specimen trees in pots. These early specimens displayed sparse foliage and rugged, gnarled trunks which often looked like animals, dragons and birds. There are a great number of myths and legends surrounding Chinese bonsai, and the grotesque or animal-like trunks and root formations are still highly prized today. Chinese bonsai come from the landscape of the imagination and images of fiery dragons and coiled serpents take far greater precedence over images of trees- so the two forms of this art are quite far apart. With Japan's adoption of many cultural trademarks of China - bonsai was also taken up, introduced to Japan during the Kamakura period (1185 - 1333) by means of Zen Buddhism - which at this time was rapidly spreading around Asia. The exact time is debatable, although it is possible that it had arrived in AD 1195 as there appears to be a reference to it in a Japanese scroll attributed to that period. Once bonsai was introduced into Japan, the art was refined to an extent not yet approached in China. Over time, the simple trees were not just confined to the Buddhist monks and their monasteries, but also later were introduced to be representative of the aristocracy - a symbol of prestige and honour. The ideals and philosophy of bonsai were greatly changed over the years. For the Japanese, bonsai represents a fusion of strong ancient beliefs with the Eastern philosophies of the harmony between man, the soul and nature. In an ancient Japanese scroll written in Japan around the Kamakura period, it is translated to say : "To appreciate and find pleasure in curiously curved potted trees is to love deformity". Whether this was intended as a positive or negative statement, it leaves us to believe that growing dwarfed and twisted trees in containers was an accepted practice among the upper class of Japan by the Kamakura period. By the fourteenth century bonsai was indeed viewed as a highly refined art form, meaning that it must have been an established practice many years before that time. Bonsai were brought indoors for display at special times by the 'Japanese elite' and became an important part of Japanese life by being displayed on specially designed shelves. These complex plants were no longer permanently reserved for outdoor display, although the practices of training and pruning did not develop until later - the small trees at this time still being taken from the wild. In the 17th and 18th century, the Japanese arts reached their peak and were regarded very highly. Bonsai again evolved to a much higher understanding and refinement of nature - although the containers used seemed to be slightly deeper than those used today. The main factor in maintaining bonsai was now the removal of all but the most important parts of the plant. The reduction of everything just to the essential elements and ultimate refinement was very symbolic of the Japanese philosophy of this time - shown by the very simple Japanese gardens such as those in the famous temple - Roan-ji. At around this time, bonsai also became commonplace to the general Japanese public - which greatly increased demand for the small trees collected from the wild and firmly established the artform within the culture and traditions of the country. Over time, bonsai began to take on different styles, each which varied immensely from one another. Bonsai artists gradually looked into introducing other culturally important elements in their bonsai plantings such as rocks, supplementary and accent plants, and even small buildings and people which itself is known as the art of bon-kei. They also looked at reproducing miniature landscapes in nature - known as sai-kei which further investigated the diverse range of artistic possibilities for bonsai. Finally, in the mid-19th century, after more than 230 years of global isolation, Japan opened itself up to the rest of the world. Word soon spread from travelers who visited Japan of the miniature trees in ceramic containers which mimicked aged, mature, tall trees in nature. Further exhibitions in London, Vienna and Paris in the latter part of the century - especially the Paris World Exhibition in 1900 opened the world's eyes up to bonsai. Due to this phenomenal upsurge in the demand for bonsai, the now widely expanding industry and lack of naturally-forming, stunted plants led to the commercial production of bonsai by artists through training young plants to grow to look like bonsai. Several basic styles were adopted, and artists made use of wire, bamboo skewers and growing techniques to do this - allowing the art to evolve even further. The Japanese learnt to capitalize on the interest in this artform very quickly - opening up nurseries dedicated solely to grow, train and then export bonsai trees. Different plants were now being used to cater for worldwide climates and to produce neater foliage and more suitable growth habits. Bonsai techniques such as raising trees from seed or cuttings and the styling and grafting of unusual, different or tender material onto hardy root stock were further developed. Bonsai has now evolved to reflect changing tastes and times - with a great variety of countries, cultures and conditions in which it is now practiced. In Japan today, bonsai are highly regared as a symbol of their culture and ideals. The New Year is not complete unless the tokonoma - the special niche in every Japanese home used for the display of ornaments and prized possessions - is filled with a blossoming apricot or plum tree. Bonsai is no longer reserved for the upper-class, but is a joy shared by executive and factory worker alike. The Japanese tend to focus on using native species for their bonsai - namely pines, azaleas and maples (regarded as the traditional bonsai plants). In other countries however, people are more open to opinion. The evolution of bonsai over the past two centuries is truly amazing - now a well known and respected horticultural artform that has spread throughout the world from Greenland to the U.S. to South Africa to Australia. It is constantly changing and reaching even greater heights, representative of how small the world is really getting. © Copyright, Written by Dan Hubik. Maintenance Once you have trained, or started to train a bonsai into a chosen style, it is vital to keep the plant growing well. To do this, you need a knowledge of basic horticultural skills, such as where to place the tree, and how to water and feed it correctly. You also need to know how to prune the branches, roots, and repot the bonsai periodically. Routine branch pruning is necessary to maintain the shape of the bonsai. Finally, wiring the tree in place and making sure that the wire doesn't bite into the flesh of the tree is also something very important to know about. This maintenance section has been designed to cover these aspects involved in keeping a bonsai. Where should I position my outdoor bonsai? This question of course is very specific to the species of the bonsai, however generally try to keep the bonsai out of a position of direct sunlight, where they receive good air circulation, relative humidity, and are in a place where they are easily accessible to you for maintenance (i.e. watering, feeding and pruning). You can usually tell if a plant likes or dislikes where it is currently positioned - if you do detect signs of stress such as wilting, burnt foliage or discoloration - move the plant to an area more fitting. As a general rule, you should consider the origins of a plant and how it would grow naturally. For example you would keep a rainforest fig in part-shade with dappled sunlight (possibly under shade cloth) which mimics the environment that it would naturally grow in. Plants such as rosemary or the pomegranate for example - which originated in the Mediterranean - are more hardy and thrive in a position of semi shade to full sun, as they are able to withstand drought and appreciate the hot climate. Can I display my outdoor bonsai inside the house? How? Yes, you can bring your bonsai inside - but not permanently - and it must be ensured that they are given extra-special attention. Generally you should only keep your bonsai inside for more than 3 days a month at most. You can not grow them inside (that follows into the realm of indoor bonsai which uses a completely different group of plants). You may wish to display your bonsai when you are having a special occasion or to admire their beauty when they are flowering or fruiting, but it is not advised to bring them in too often - for risk of causing undue stress to the plant. Care must be taken to ensure that they are given the right amount of water (definitely not allowed to dry out) and sunlight as well as humidity which can be achieved by misting with a general water sprayer. Make sure that the bonsai are not positioned in the way of any draughts and definitely not next to a heater - even in winter. Above all, the bonsai should not be disturbed too much from their general routine. [If you want to keep your bonsai warm during the winter (i.e. if they are tropical bonsai) - a heater can be used - but you must also use a humidifier to keep the plants from drying out. Do some research beforehand on the species of your bonsai before you decide if you want to do this.] How often should I water my bonsai? How frequently you water your bonsai depends on many things. A dry wind, excessive heat, or a combination of both, can quickly dry out the soil, so you must monitor moisture levels regularly. Generally if you keep your trees outside where rain can water them, you don't need to worry much in the winter except in times of hot weather or little rain. In the summer you should endeavour to water your plants several times a week, and daily in very hot periods - where you should move the trees into the shade. You may find it is a good idea to set up a drip sprinkler system - where the bonsai are watered every day in the summer and every three days in the winter. Alternatively, you can use a watering can with a fine rose attached to water the soil and roots. Using a general water sprayer to increase humidity is also a good idea if your climate experiences dry periods. What and when do I feed my bonsai? To keep your bonsai in good shape and to maintain healthy growth requires regular feeding at the right time of year with the correct fertilizer. Fertilizer must be continually replenished due to a certain amount being washed out each time the plant is watered. You can get many different types of fertilizers, in a variety of forms. The most common is pellet-form (such as 'Osmocote'). This is a slow-release fertilizer which will take care of feeding requirements for several weeks at a time and is probably the type of fertilizer most used by bonsai enthusiasts. Soluble powder and liquid feeds are also used for rapid effect over short-term periods. These are applied to the soil with a watering can and are used up relatively quickly. To understand exactly how your bonsai should be fertilized, you must be able to understand the basic make-up of fertilizers. Most fertilizers contain three basic elements: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P) and Potassium (K). Nitrogen is an essential ingredient for leaf and stem growth. Too much nitrogen however will make the tree produce long, stringy growth. Phosphorus encourages healthy root growth and helps the growth of new buds, whilst also protecting against disease and unfavorable winter conditions. Potassium (potash) encourages the formation of flowers and fruit, and is vital in the fight against disease. As a general rule, feed your bonsai from early spring to late summer. Use a balanced fertilizer with a fairly low nitrogen content year round, and one with as little (or no) nitrogen as possible in autumn to aid the tree (so the tree can retain its energy) through the winter. Most commercial fertilizers contain all three main nutrients plus some trace elements. One type of fertilizer usually only obtainable from bonsai nurseries has an NPK (nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium) ratio of 0:10:10. This is an autumn feed (containing no nitrogen) which will harden off the current season's growth in readiness for the winter. What are the best types of plants to use for bonsai? Any substantial plant can be trained into a bonsai with a bit of hard work - although some plants are very difficult to make to adapt to the shallow pots and restricted growth. Trees/shrubs which are used more commonly for bonsai - and adapt quite well are evergreens such as Pine, Cypress, Camelia, Azalea, Pomegranate, Holly, Serissa, Fig (Rainforest and Mediterranean) and Cedar. Deciduous trees such as Cherry, Maple (Japanese and Trident), Zelkova and Beech are also prime candidates. All of these plants are favoured for bonsai because they are great plants for both the novice and expert. They offer many special characteristics such as beautiful flowers, a strong and hardy nature, attractive bark, interesting foliage or seasonal fruits and cones. Whatever the attribute, the above plants really do make beautiful bonsai - while also being traditional plants which have been used in this art for centuries. When, how and why should I repot my bonsai? Regular repotting of your bonsai to replace important nutrients, 'stale soil' and allow for new root growth is vital to your bonsai's health and growth. Generally, the trees should be repotted at a time when they are most dormant - such as late autumn to early spring, so that they are subjected to the least amount of stress possible. Young or small bonsai require repotting every two or three years, and older and larger specimens less often. You can tell that a bonsai needs repotting if water takes a long time to drain through the soil or if the roots are crowding around the sides. To repot, carefully lift the tree out of its current pot by tilting it to one side and trying to move it by the base of the trunk. You can not pull too hard on the trunk - so if this does not work, try tapping the pot with the side of your hand to loosen the rootball or poke a stick through the drainage holes and 'push' the rootball out. Next, using a chopstick, knitting needle, metal hook or similar, remove any moss or accent plants and carefully try to brush and untangle the roots. Start at the edge and gradually work around. Try to 'comb' and 'tug' rather than to 'pull' at the roots - for risk of damaging or tearing some very important main roots. After this has been done - continue to shake and brush off the soil until about one third to half of the original soil has been removed from the edge and base of the rootball. It would now be a good idea to spray the roots with water to ensure that they do not dry out and so that they will not have too much soil on them when it comes time to pruning the roots. To prune the roots, use very sharp cutters. There are bonsai root pruning scissors commercially available, however you could just use a normal pair of bonsai clippers or secateurs. If you have washed away most loose soil the scissors will stay sharp, but if they have to cut through soil as well as the roots - they will become blunt very quickly and require sharpening. Start by cutting the thick, old brown roots that have come close to the edge of the pot and are restricting the growth of the young 'feeder roots'. Remove a third to a half of these - being careful that you do not remove too many feeder roots in the process. Next, prune the thinner roots which hang below the depth of the pot by trimming them all into a suitable shape that the pot will accommodate. This should be a shape that fits comfortably into the pot with a 1-2 cm (1/2 to 3/4 in) space between the edges. The demanding part of the repotting is now over - if you think that you've cut too many feeder roots off, the tree will be disadvantaged but you probably will get away with it - as new roots will grow from the cuts. Clean the original pot thoroughly or select a new pot that is more suited to the tree and cover the drainage holes with simple wire mesh. As the plant will now be unstable in the new pot as it has nothing to anchor it - we have to make some anchors to prevent the tree from falling over from winds or from being moved. Thread some wire (doesn't need to be very thick) through the drainage holes or specially designed holes for anchoring and leave for later use. Add a thin layer of gravel to aid drainage and then a layer of soil. Moving the tree around, decide a basic position for it (usually off-center and slightly to the back of the pot) and make a small mound that it will sit on. Now you can place your bonsai on the mound by gently nestling it in and spreading its roots out evenly throughout on top of the soil. Once you are happy with the height and position of your tree (it is going to stay like that for 1-2 years), take the wires that you threaded and twist them together (usually with the aid of pliers) over the main rootball of the tree until it is held firmly (but not too tight) and will not rock. Because these wires are quite unsightly, you can remove them in a few months time once the tree has settled in. Add more soil up to the base of the trunk - which should be just below the base of the pot. Tap the side of the pot with your hand to ensure that the soil becomes settled and that there are no gaps around the roots. Use your chopstick to incorporate the roots into the soil and to make sure that they are placed correctly. Once the soil has been applied, you now have the option to add supplementary features such as rocks, moss, accent plants or gravel to enhance the design. When applying moss - be careful that most of the original soil is cut off from the bottom before you plant it and that the moss (or any other plant for that matter) is not too big or vigourous for the pot or tree. Now you can thoroughly water the tree - being aware that the soil level may settle further and that more soil may have to be added. Place the tree in a position where it will not receive extremes in temperature (i.e. not direct sun) and where it will be able to recuperate. Don't fertilize at this time - as this can burn or cause stress to the plant. You can feed in around a month though, when the roots have recovered. Note that to balance out the extensive pruning you have just done on the roots, you should prune the branches of the bonsai as well so that it can recover quicker and not be disadvantaged further. Root growth usually does equal branch growth. What sort of soil should I use for bonsai? Most beginners use a general potting mix for bonsai soil until they get the hang of things - and I recommend that you do this too - just until you familiarise yourself with the other processes involved in bonsai. As long as the mix is open and well-draining you should not have a problem and it wont impact negatively on the plant. If you can get pre-made bonsai soil instead however, use it. Bonsai soil is much more free draining than potting soil and doesn't contain as much fertilizer as normal potting soil which is usually for plants in large pots that people want to grow really big. It is usually available at specialist bonsai nurseries, and even some normal nurseries stock it. This is probably the easiest, cheapest and least time consuming way. Making your own soil mix isn't as hard as you think. A lot of bonsai growers make a bit of an unnecessary fuss about it. A basic bonsai soil mix to use - and one that would apply to almost all species is: one part loam, two parts sphagnum peat moss, two parts granite grit. All of these ingredients should be easy enough to obtain. What part does pruning play in bonsai? When should I prune, and to what extent? Pruning is necessary to maintain (or refine growth to obtain) the right shape of a bonsai and encourage new growth. Some plants naturally respond well to pruning, regardless of how intense, whilst other plants can find it hard to recover, especially when pruned at the wrong time of the year. To prune correctly you must find out the type of plant your bonsai is and research when the best times are to prune old and new season growth. Generally, new growth is pruned during the growing season to maintain the shape of the bonsai, whilst pruning of hard wood (old season growth) is done in mid-autumn. One of the main forms of pruning for bonsai, especially evergreen coniferous bonsai such as junipers and cedars is 'finger pruning'. This involves pinching back new growth which does not come within the general shape of the bonsai or is at the top of the bonsai - helping to encourage bushy foliage and a more tree-like looking bonsai. To do this, take the growth between your thumb and forefinger whilst holding the branch with your other hand and remove with a twisting movement. This is better than trimming the growth with scissors, this leaves an unnatural look and leaves the foliage an unsightly brown. For deciduous trees such as maples, the chinese elm and cotoneaster, scissor tip pruning is best. When trimming outward or 'overenthusiastic' growth, trim shoots back to just after the next series of leaves, but don't cut the foliage as such. Leaf pruning (also known as defoliation) in bonsai is used for several deciduous and tropical plants such as ficus or maples to reduce leaf size, remove unsightly leaves and speed-up growth by causing two seasons' growth in one. For deciduous trees such as maples it also means that their autumn country is brighter. This is done in mid-summer, by cutting 60-90% of the leaves off the tree, only leaving a few to ensure that the tree keeps its energy. Remove leaves with fine scissors, cutting them from directly behind the leaf. In the next few weeks make sure that you keep the plant in a hospitable position and climate and supply it adequate water. Remember however, that this form of pruning is only applicable to certain types of plants. What techniques can I use to wire my bonsai? Is it really necessary? Not all plants need wiring to achieve their desired shape or to achieve official 'bonsai' status. The Fukien Tea plant for example, can be trained quite easily without the use of wire. Contrary to what many novices may think, wiring of a bonsai is not done to keep the plant small, but rather is a temporary measure used to hold branches in a desired position in order to enhance the shape of a tree. Wire should not be left permanently on a tree and should be checked regularly. When wiring, try to imitate the natural curves of trees in nature. Make sure that you only attempt to wire branches that are unlikely to break when pressure used to twist the wire around the branch is applied. There are two types of bonsai wire available - copper wire and aluminium wire. Although easy to obtain, less expensive and naturally a better colour than uncoloured aluminium wire (silver) - it is much harder to apply to branches, especially for beginners, and if applied incorrectly - which is easy to do, could ruin your most prized bonsai. Undoubtedly, the better wire is aluminium wire which is usually coloured to look just like copper wire and is available at any bonsai nursery. It is much more maleable than copper wire and generally has the same effect. The size of wire used depends on the size of branch you want to train and in most part should be chosen yourself - also dependent on how significantly you want to change the shape of a branch and how stubborn the species of plant is. You should purchase wire in a variety of different lengths and test it out on pruned branches from around the garden. You can always remove the wire (very carefully if on a bonsai), flatten it out and use it again. For pencil-thick sized branches I recommend a gauge 3.5mm aluminium wire. The lowest gauge I recommend you use is 2.0mm. The safest method to use when wiring is by clenching the branch with both hands (not dissimilar to the look of a clamp) and applying the wire by slowly following it around the branch - making sure it does not damage the trunk. Wire the branch first, and then worry about bending the branch (which is made possible by the wire and using the clamp method) to achieve your desired shape. Be careful of leaves or if in autumn, leaf buds. It is always best to anchor the wire so it does actually re-train the branch. This can be done by digging it into the soil and training the wire up the trunk until it reaches the desired branch, or by anchoring it to another branch. Sometimes, when it is too hard to use large gauge wire in order to train a large branch or trunk, or you don't have the right gauge of wire, you can 'double up' the wiring and wire the branch twice. It is best to not water a day before wiring, and to keep the tree in shade for two weeks after wiring. Check every few weeks for wire cutting into the bark of the bonsai - particularly during spring and summer, or risk the danger of irrepairible scars. It can take many, many years for wire damage to grow out - depending on how serious it is. Deciduous trees are particularly susceptible to wire damage due to large growth spurts in the growing season. The following books are recommended for beginners at bonsai, acting as a handy and simple guide to bonsai that can be referred to as they progress. Any person starting at bonsai should have at least one of these in their collection. They offer info. and tips on plant maintenance, bonsai styles and different bonsai techniques. Bonsai | Bonsai for Beginners | Suiseki | Japanese Gardening | General Horticulture Bonsai Tools (not books) "Bonsai for Beginners" Craig Coussins Hardcover - 128 pages (published June 2001) $17.46 (30% off retail) Click here to purchase this book Review : A fantastic bonsai guide for beginners - with a basic rundown of all the aspects of care required, a brief style analysis and a multitude of case studies. Every page is adorned with detailed, colored bonsai specimens - which is excellent for the beginner to get an idea of what can be achieved. Unlike other bonsai publications, it caters for bonsai enthusiasts throughout the world - with a collection of species covering a large range of climates. The case studies in this book (33 in all) are great - ranging from styling a formal upright bonsai to perspective planting. "Bonsai Basics : A Step-By-Step Guide to Growing, Training & General Care" Christian Pessey, Remy Samson (Contributor) Paperback - 120 pages (74 in color) (published March 1993) $10.36 US (20% off retail) Click here to purchase this book Review : A simple, straight-forward guide to bonsai that covers the basics in depth looking at things such as selecting a hardy specimen; the essentials of pruning, wiring, and aging; different bonsai styles; keeping your bonsai healthy through watering, feeding, and preventive treatment for pests and diseases. Also included is a calendar with seasonal checklist to remind you what to do and when. With over 200 full-color photos and drawings, this book provides a good base for beginners to start out with this fascinating hobby. "Keep Your Bonsai Alive & Well" Herb L. Gustafson Paperback - 96 pages (published October 1997) $12.95 US Click here to purchase this book Review : This is a clearly written book that focuses primarily on bonsai maintenance, providing the answers to commonly asked questions. It is a good starter book which gives beginners the tips needed to get started in this hobby. More than 150 color photos showcase bonsai and illustrate various procedures. This book goes into much more detail on watering and preventative maintenance than most. It includes information with regard to watering, tree placement and general growing tips. "Bonsai - pocket encyclopedia (RD Home Handbooks)" Harry Tomlinson Paperback - 216 pages (published February 1995) $12.80 US (20% off retail) Click here to purchase this book Review : This is a book I would recommend to any beginner at bonsai. It contains information on almost every aspect of bonsai; from growing a single tree from seed to creating a landscape arrangement. It also includes a comprehensive full-colour guide to the identification, growing and training of over 75 bonsai trees and shrubs. Easy-to-follow step-by-step sequences show how to create and shape your own bonsai and keep them healthy. The relationship between shape, scale, composition and colour are clearly analyzed and an inspirational selection of mature bonsai illustrates the classic styles. For such a reasonable price, this book really does cover a lot - going into things many other books would pass over such as how to use bonsai equipment, types of wire and techniques on wiring, how to make jins and shari, leaf defoliation and watering bonsai. "Simon and Schuster's Guide to Bonsai" Gianfranco Giorgi, Victoria Jahn (Editor) Paperback - 255 pages (published May 1991) $12.80 US (20% off retail) Click here to purchase this book Review : This book acts as a guide to identifying your bonsai, with more than 100 full-color photographs of 150 species of trees. A 'must-have' reference for your bonsai library. Almost all well-known bonsai plants are included, with a picture and general care guidelines for all tree types listed. "Bonsai" Sunset Book, Sunset Magazine (Editor) Paperback - 96 pages, New ed. (published May 1994) $10.36 US (20% off) Click here to purchase this book Review : This is a thorough guide to the art of bonsai with 90 color photographs and detailed explanations. Contains clear, easy to follow guidelines. Explores how to start and train a bonsai and includes an encyclopedia of plants proven to grow successfully under bonsai treatment. A good reference book that can be used as a guide even by the intermediate and advanced. Different styles are discussed along with useful pictures of bonsai to aid the beginner.