Watering and Establishing Turf

Good day!

No rainfall was recorded again this past week. Temperatures were above normal for most of this week. Crops, pastures, hay, and vegetables are still suffering from lack of water.

Wheat harvest is ranging from 5 to 60 bushels per acre. Corn is in the milk stage in most fields. Normal-sized pods can be found on all soybean plants now.

I had a question last week about watering perennials, so I thought I would talk about watering. The best way to water is to apply water for a long period of time and less frequently. Watering for a short period of time and more frequently can be detrimental to plants during extended droughts. Using a soaker hose is the best way to water perennial and annual plants.

If you have not watered fall flowering perennials, then flower production will likely be reduced. If you have not watered spring and summer flowering perennials by now you may have reduced flower production next spring and summer. If plants are wilting during the day then it is a good idea to water the plants very soon, regardless of when they flower. Plants need about one inch of water per week during the growing season to maximize growth and flowering and half that much in the fall. Regardless of the time of year the plants flower give them enough water to sustain growth, but cut back the amount of water in the fall as that is what mother nature does naturally. If you water in the late fall always water during the day when the temperature is above 40 degrees and the soil is not frozen.

Now is the best time to establish grass in lawns, however, it is not worth the effort to seed at this time if you are not willing to water properly. Proper watering means to water a smaller amount of water three to four times a day to keep the upper 1” of soil moist until the grass is emerged, then water for a long period of time less frequently.

This is not the fall to restart a lawn that is full of weeds and a poor grass stand unless you are willing to till up the area. The existing grass and some weeds are dormant at this time due to dry weather and will not take up the glyphosate (Roundup) that is necessary to kill existing grasses and weeds to seed without tillage. Tilling the soil will not control all deep-rooted or rhizomatous perennial weeds, only the use of glyphosate can control them. Tilling an existing lawn will not give you the best seedbed, unless you rake off all of the sod chunks.

The best choice in purchasing grass seed is a mixture of Kentucky bluegrass with perennial ryegrass and/or fine fescue. It is best to purchase seed that has different varieties of the species mentioned above. A mixtures of grass species will establish quickly and have the genetic variability to better withstand traffic, drought, and insect and disease problems than a single-species.

Seed from August 15th to September 15th. This late summer seeding is best because the soil temperatures are warmer to speed up germination, weed competition will be reduced, cooler fall temperature will result in less stress on seedling growth, and precipitation patterns generally are more dependable.

Purchase quality seed with the best germination rate. The goal in seeding is to get about 15 to 20 seeds applied per square inch. Seed bluegrass blends (different varieties) at a rate of one to two pounds per 1,000 square feet, bluegrass mixtures at two to 3 pounds per 1,000 square feet, and straight tall fescue cultivars or a mix of tall fescue at six to eight pounds per 1,000 square feet.

When seeding, spread the seed evenly with a drop spreader, twice, going in directions perpendicular to each other. Lightly drag the surface with a leaf rake to get the seed in good contact with the soil. Do not bury the seed more than 0.5 inch with vigorous raking. If possible put down a straw or virgin wood fiber mulch to keep the soil moist.

Good luck seeding!